MARY KATRANTZOU AT LFW
Everything has to move forward including fashion which is always heavily laden with retrospective elements, so while silhouette and style references swing back and forwards its exciting to know we are in the midst of a textile revolution. Textile designers are biting at the bit to make their statement on fashion and indeed the ability to construct an outfit in tandem with its textile concept is an thrilling one. Mary Katrantzou’s large graphic digital prints won lots her of praise in her first two collections, using the the strong lines of pattern and colour to emphasis or breakup part of the silhouette creating dynamic and upbeat design possibilities.
In contrast to the crispness of last season perfume bottle graphics Katrantzou (also on her second outing for LFW) showcased a more organic and abstract print experiment. Inspired by possibilities of blown glass sculptures, a swirling array of clashing pattern and colours travel around the silhouette indicating a real desire to imagine in 3d the flat print process. In some garments the print travelled up the dress and right of the one sided shoulder or a burst of ruffle at the bust changing in intensity as it hit certain points on the form. Katrantzou continued her bold accessories statement by commissioning the absolutely stunning hand blown glass accessories by Peter Layton. Bold statements in colour and print packed quite a punch but there is a sense that Katrantzou has a lot more to explore in form and garment design but judging by the cut away panels, varying hems, splits, single shoulders etc that there is an itch to push it all as far as it will go, so definitely one to watch.