LOUISE GRAY S/S 10
You are what you eat and in Louise Grays case you are what you wear. Only 3 seasons in and Gray’s collections always feel like a further step in a personal journey of self discovery or self awareness. For her fashion design is some sort of cathartic experience in an attempt to define as purely as possible an individual woman. This singular vision is at the essence of what she does and this seasons miss match of coordinates entitled “OH NO BABE” is a definite point in the realization of who Louise Gray is. Each season the collection of fabrication appears to grow more scattered and complex, the layering more hap hazard and coordinates a mish mash of random shapes, a slating reviews perhaps for any designer but this is where Grays strength lies, all that apparent chaos visual and suggested is controlled, instinctual and a real statement. In a recent interview Gray suggests one of her favourite things is getting dressed in the dark, not something many people would claim to, but this is indicative of her fashion vibe, everything should be a heady mix of uncontrived almost accidental zeitgeist decisions, an aspirational joie de vie which is why Grays collection can find its audience.
In detail, there were twisted chiffon skirts with exposed half cocked hems, double layered chiffon vest blouses and dresses squashed under bask tops in suede and leather tied with plastic bags, appliqued ragged shaped motifs secured on fabrics with criss cross stitching, burnt out squares and circles in exposing contrasting colours beneath, you get the message, lots going on and all set off by textured tourettes accessories by Judy Blame. The overall look of high waisted pencil skirts and cropped trousers, jump suits, bask dresses and box line coats was of the morning after, waking up having spent the night rolling around in the dark in a fabric suppliers and wrapping it all up in a little bow of string round your waist and going to Marylebone for breakfast, and that’s sounds quite an attractive way to be.