COOPERATIVE DESIGNS A/W 10. /- INTERVIEW
Describe what you do? We are knitwear designers, under the name COOPERATIVE DESIGNS. We mix traditional and innovative elements to create modern, graphic, luxury knitwear.
How did you come to be doing this? We both met at Central St Martins on the MA. I (Annalisa) had such a strong reaction to my MA show I really wanted to start a business, and I spent a few months persuading Dorothee to join me! Our work was really different but we shared a certain design aesthetic, and we felt we would work together well.
How easy or hard is it? Its not easy to run to a business, especially in fashion, especially at the moment. We design up to 80 new products a year, which we have to prototype, sell, market, promote and produce! It’s a lot of work but we love it.
What would you change about your industry, your work, you? We would promote the status of knitwear within the industry. Knit doesn’t have to be sexy and reveal acres of skin in the obvious ways, or be completely unrecognisable as knit in order to be exciting. A great jumper or cardigan has an understated elegance which is so sexy
Is there a plan? Absolutely. Cooperative are going to go Global.
Is the process from idea to product or output a changing one, or a routine one? Having designed 7 collections together we have definitely developed a system. But every time new issues and decisions come up which we have to face together. Once you’ve finished a collection it seems so easy, you can see what you would have liked to have changed, and what you get right. But when you are in the middle of it, it still seems so overwhelming, its easy to get lost. That’s one of the reasons its great to work in a partnership, you can keep each other on the right path.
Is there always an audience/ character/ market in mind, an external
audience? We always think of our customers when we’re designing a collection. We also think of ourselves. There is no point in designing/making/selling and promoting a garment that we wouldn’t wear ourselves! Our customers are confident, strong, independent women, who appreciate luxury materials and innovative design.
Explain the relationship between art/creativity and establishment/industry, can the two co exist? Is successful work diffused work? We do not believe for a moment that fashion is art. Its commercial design: we want to make money with our work, we want to please our customer and make her feel amazing. Successful work is that gold dust mixture of creativity, clever design and capturing that elusive cultural moment.
Is there a defining line between you the individual/ designer/creative and the audience/market/output? No, we are our own customers, and we are customers of other creative designers ! Lots of our private customers are our friends. Getting feedback on our work is so important. We want to be part of our own audience.
Who or what are your influences, heroes, idols, muses, irritants? We usually take inspiration from art, films and the people around us.We like to mix these conceptual references with some trashy tv like Buffy, My So Called Life etc.
If money wasn’t an issue what would you do/produce/create or not do? Ha ha we would do everything! We would set up our own factory to knit especially for us and the other young London designers who want to design some great knitwear. Then we’d go on a long holiday.
Tell us about the current collection/project you are working on;
what is your current source of inspiration? We are just starting Autumn Winter 2011. We are still groping around in the dark, looking at various ideas.
Is there an emotional, physical, mental backdrop to your work, what
gets you motivated work wise? We both love being creative. Running a business gives you the chance to use your creativity in so many ways as well as within the actual collection: working with different people, pitching successfully for sponsorships and collaborations, organising shows, events, even bloody Christmas cards!
If you were to study a subject which is related to your practice but could inform your work what would it be?Marketing and business.
If you could do something else what would it be?Annalisa: sit in my house with the kitten drinking tea and watching the world. (for a week before I get really board then get a job in bloody fashion). Dorothee: I honestly don’t know what I would do… I guess that means that I like it?!
The current issue is themed “2ND SKIN” how would you translate this? In some kind of sci fi way. I’m thinking Face Off.
COOPERATIVE DESIGNS are Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hageman.
Illustrations: David Poole