20Mar

SHOW NOTES: SIMONE ROCHA LFW, AW11.

Cutaway panelled wool jacket with tulle and fur. Gingham blouse with high tulle collar.

Second-time outing under the Fashion East umberella saw Simone Rocha present a clean, well considered and expertly finished silhoutte; a look of clarity suggesting a maturity beyond her youth in terms of design and potential. As her models, styled by Celestine Cooney, marched past on perspex-heeled brogues we were presented with precise tailoring and a clear follow-on from the minimalist style of her previous collection. Having such a defined look so early on might be limiting but her attention to detail, stripped-back tailoring and layering gives her a stand alone platform amongst her contemporaries.

Exaggerated cable-knits were delecately covered with tulle/mesh (a fabric used throughout the collection) almost sheathing the garments underneath it. Panelled blazers were slashed at the underarm and elbows, with tulle panel inserts revealing glimpses of gingham underneath. Fur and shearling were used as sleeves and back-panels to skirts and blazers along with blocks of black and leather adding weight to an otherwise light collection.

Hinting at andrgynous but wholly sensous,  key pieces included a transparent tulle blazer/tunic with the front panels in black wool, slightly dropped at the shoulders with wide-cut sheer sleeves. Collars on blouses were high with rounded tips in sheers and ginghams, juxtaposed against the traditonal tailored reveres of the single-breasted suiting. Within the tight palette of black, beige, cream and contrasting pinks, each outfit could be deconstructed repeatedly to reveal  variations of subtle detailing.

All very beguiling and considered – the years of watching her Father John Rocha at work have honed her editing skills. Her suggestion of a new feminity is a good mix of nonchalance for gender roles and sexual fluidity; it’s mens shapes, with with womens taste, with girls colours with boyish ease. All very promising and refreshing.

Words by Tom Kitching. Illustration by David Poole

Drop shouldered panel jacket with wool, fur and tulle. Gingham blouse with high rounded collar. Un-hemmed tulle shorts.

Wool suit jacket with ponyskin sleeve. Un-hemmed tulle shorts. Leather brogue with perspex heel.

Leather and shearling blazer with tulle overcoat. Soft leather high collared blouse. Soft leather skirt.

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