SHOW NOTES: JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA LFW, AW11.

Graduated mesh and mixed fibre top, elliptical shape, ballooned skirt, with zip pocket detail. Cut away shaped panels, a key trend.

A case of construction over conviction here, with some great pieces of tailoring outshining some perhaps ‘lost’ looks. A show of two halves, one with fierce models in luxe 90′s loose power dressing; brilliant, jauntily showcasing Braganza’s ability to cut to empower – a hardened “fashion” woman with a fetish for tongue in cheek.

A dark palette of slate grays and blacks slapped with bright red travelled through wool, furs velvets and leathers  and conventions of form were deconstructed and reconstructed with disjointed lapels, asymmetric hemlines, drop shoulders and  heavily curved seams with variations of  a masculine over-sized coats- a nod to the androgynous zeitgeist perhaps. The graduated panelled jumper and dress contrasted well against the heavy wool coats and fur trim collars and an impressive men’s red suit and forties style women’s two-piece hinted at skilled tailoring with a message to carry,  what this message was however was a little unclear. Thigh high boots, high pony’s, full blush cheeks and brazen red lips needed the full on tailoring twist but this mixed power message drifted toward the second half of the show, which appeared to be sheepish, slightly lost power dressing’.

Still enough there to keep looking, the two halves might be worth a fashion divide.

Words by Tom Kitching. Illustration by David Poole.

Raglan drop sleeve wide cut coat with side panel buckle detail and front overlap.

Elliptical high collar wool coat with leather patch panel sleeve. Angular hems with drop pocket flap placement. Suit jacket, more push and pulling of pattern and cut.

Jersey knit panelled dress, curved insert, overlayed t-shirt sleeve and neck panels. Sharp cut panelled suiting - the bell sleeve of the season?

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