SHOW NOTES: JJS LEE, LFW, AW11.

Long line leather coat with sown down sleeve panels and contrast back neck collar.

A very calm “Salon” style presentation for J.JS LEE in the Portico room of Somerset House.   Everything had the impression of being very considered and well finished with a slight edge. Designer Jackie Lee, a recent graduate from CSM has worked as a pattern cutter before embarking on her MA and the collection exudes that quite confidence in ability.  The colour palette of putty, black, brown in wool and leather was offset with neat sharp white shirts, and the odd black button or back collar.  Twists in tailoring with sown down sleeves, embossed seams, suspended skirt/aprons and elongated upper silhouettes and broad shoulder all gave the collection a clear definition,  a middle ground of androgyny rather than sex.   A kind of old school puritanism based on intellect over image,  slightly bookish fashion careerists, with their back pack suitcase-satchels, all very militant chic with understated steeliness. The show had one man to suggest the male/female cross over but perhaps that could have been pushed even further, the cigarette leg trousers with pleated fronts and neat shirts and box suit jackets had a zoot zoot element that many genders would covet. All in all, lots of boxes ticked.

Long line, single button jacket and long pencil skirts in leather and wool.

Brown wool 3 piece set with front skirt/bib, repeated over trousers.

Slight tulip wool skirt with heavy front waist folds and split level fitted black jacket.

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